Pamir Highway, Along the Afghan Border'

Khorog is a pretty mountain valley town of 28000 inhabitants set amongst dry vertical peaks, divided by the gushing Gunt River. At an altitude of 2100 meters, it offered a pleasant change in temperature from the Pamir Plateau'
The majority of the people belong to the Ismali Sect of Islam, led by the Aga Khan, who has funneled a lot of development money into the region. Khorog, with three campuses of the University of Central Asia in its eastern suburbs, has one of the brightest and best educated populations in Central Asia.
At left, Dr. Ali Muhammed Rajput, a Pakistani scholar, who selflessly funded the Pamir Lodge where we stayed the night. He divides his time between London and Khorog. The monies from the Lodge go to support the workers and the local Ismali prayer and meeting hall.
A few kilometers downstream, the Gunt River merges with the Pyanj River, marking the border with Afghanistan. The photo at left was taken on the grounds of the Khorog Serena Inn, the best hotel in town. Afghanistan is on the other side of the river.
We met up again with the three Italian riders that we had encountered earlier on, and traveled the day with them. In the photo, Paulo wearing his "spare helmet", and Maria on the back.
Afghan border post, Pyanj River.
The southern route to Dushambe, paralleling the border, passes through pretty Tajik villages and magnificent scenery.
The road conditions were varied, mixed pavement and corrugated gravel. However, when compared to the tracks along the cliffs on the Afghan side, they were heaven!
Lunch stop at a little roadside cafe with a backdrop of waterfalls. Boris, one of the Italian motorcyclists enjoying lunch.
Lunch, the typical kebob, salad and bread fare.
Cleaning the dishes
Soft drink sales lady. The stream kept the pop cold.
Mud brick border post, Afghan side.
Twisty road.
The track on the Afghan side, with a mule train. At times they went right up the cliff sides and it was difficult to see where they led to.
A close up of the pack train. The dress was totally different from the Tajik side.
The town of Kalaikhum, where we stayed the night.
Looking back up the valley the next day.
Creek crossing over a bridge of loose steel plates.
Midday rest stop in the cool shade of a tree.
Approaching Dushambe, a meal break.
A fellow customer.
Ibid.
Curious boy on a mule loaded with firewood.
In Dushambe at the Adventurer's Inn, where we stayed. A Indian-Pakistani couple on a break from their jobs in Dubai.
Four of the five of us who started in Tokyo met up in Dushambe. Cain having to meet his wife Yvonne in Moscow, was anxious to be off, with the limited time he had to get there. Great trip Cain, thanks for the memories!
Government building, central Dushambe. We arrived late at night, and pulled into a driveway near here to get our bearings. We were immediately swarmed by a half dozen panicky policemen, who seemed to come out of nowhere, trying to get us to move on. It turned out that the gate we were in front of was that the President's Residence!
With its tree lined streets, cool backdrop of mountains, and neoclassical buildings, Dushambe is perhaps Central Asia's best looking capital. The photo is of Rudaki Avenue, downtown.
Street scene outside the Adventurer's Inn, leaving for Uzbekistan and Samarkand.
At the exit of the infamous Anzob Tunnel, five kms. long and still a work in progress. It was dimly lit, no ventilation and lots of water seepage. A few years back, a vehicle broke down in the tunnel and several people suffocated due to the buildup of fumes. Notice the exhaust pouring out of the opening.
Gassing up in Tajikistan before making for the Uzbek border. We heard there was some problem with fuel availability in Uzbekistan. Tomorrow, Samarkand.

The Pamir Highway, Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan.

The ancient silk road city of Osh is Kyrgyzstan's second largest, and the administrative center of the Kirghiz portion of the Fergana Valley. In the months prior to our arrival there were violent clashes between the Kirghiz and Uzbek communities and scores of buildings were burned to the ground.
After a short drive from Jalalabad to Osh, we took a brief look around and left for the Pamir highway. There was lots of cleanup going on, with rubble piles at the sides of the roads. The place still felt tense.
The Pamir Highway (M41) was built by Soviet military engineers between 1931 and 1934 to facilitate troops, transport and provisions to this very remote part of the Soviet empire. It runs about 1450 kms. from Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Dushambe, the capital of Tajikistan. The route is composed of some of the most remote and untouched areas of the world.
The above photo is of a better portion of the road, climbing out of Osh.
The road turned to one of well maintained gravel. It is becoming, in the Kyrgyz portion, the major artery for trade between Central Asia and Kashgar in far western China.
Switchbacks up to the Taldyk Pass (3615 meters). There were many Chinese trucks, and a Chinese construction crew upgrading the road.
One of the Chinese workers spoke some Russian. Simon, having a chat.
Giving way to oncoming traffic.
Going down onto the Pamir Plateau.
The town of Sari Tash and in the distance. the Pamir Mountains.
Sari Tash is on the junction of the road to the Chinese border, 80 kms. to the east.
Proud grandmother and grand kids outside our home stay, Sari Tash.
A Dutch couple and their German companion. The Dutch were on an around the world bicycle trip. Not our cup of tea, but I take my hat off to them.
On the road again the next morning. The plateau is over 3000 meters in elevation. For the most part, the motorcycles ran well at this high altitude.
Bridge out!
Simon and Monica, enjoying the moment.
At the Tajik border, home to the Marco Polo sheep and the Snow Leopard.
The border crossing, Kyzyl-Art Pass, elevation 4282 meters.
In Tajikistan, looking east from the road towards China, and the border fence.
There was some pavement, but usually in poor condition. Traffic was next to nil.
Spectacular high altitude scenery!
Bridge washout. There was a long detour, but we decided to be a little adventurous and do a crossing. I almost made it, but got bogged down a meter or so from the shore. Monica made it, as you can see.
Simon's bike also got stuck, but he was able to bring Monica's lighter vehicle over successfully.
We had great weather, blue skies and sunny days
High plains living.
Kids coming for a visit.
Found a nice spot to camp for the night by a stream, along the Chinese border. There was frost on the ground overnight.
While having some coffee in the morning, three Italian motorcyclists happened by. They had taken the detour around the washed out bridge and had become disoriented with nightfall. They spent a sleepless night trying to keep warm. Hot coffees perked them up.
Yurts and nomadic herders were occasionally to be seen, but the high plateau is generally not hospitable for any kind of agriculture.
Murgab, and the view over the town during lunch
Murgab, lunch.
Alichur Village where we stayed the night. Met a couple of Swiss hikers who were exploring the nearby peaks.
Alichur and our accommodation. Afghanistan is directly over the mountain range in the background.
Breakfast consisted of yogurt, flat bread, pancakes, jam and tea.
The terrain west of Alichur is lunar like, framed by snowy peaks.
Mountain view, near the Koi-Tezek Pass (4272 meters), the highest point on the Pamir Highway.
On the Khorog side of the pass, we encountered a higher population density, more agriculture and warmer temperatures in the lower altitude valleys.
The approach to Khorog.