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The ancient silk road city of
Osh is
Kyrgyzstan's second largest, and the administrative center of the
Kirghiz portion of the
Fergana Valley. In the months prior to our arrival there were violent clashes between the
Kirghiz and Uzbek communities and scores of buildings were burned to the ground.
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After a short drive from
Jalalabad to
Osh, we took a brief look around and left for the
Pamir highway. There was lots of cleanup going on, with rubble piles at the sides of the roads. The place still felt tense.
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The
Pamir Highway (M41) was built by Soviet military engineers between 1931 and 1934 to facilitate troops, transport and provisions to this very remote part of the Soviet empire. It runs about 1450
kms. from
Osh in Kyrgyzstan to
Dushambe, the capital of Tajikistan. The route is composed of some of the most remote and untouched areas of the world.
The above photo is of a better portion of the road, climbing out of
Osh.
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The road turned to one of well maintained gravel. It is becoming, in the
Kyrgyz portion, the major artery for trade between Central Asia and
Kashgar in far western China.
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Switchbacks up to the
Taldyk Pass (3615 meters). There were many Chinese trucks, and a Chinese construction crew upgrading the road.
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One of the Chinese workers spoke some Russian. Simon, having a chat.
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Giving way to oncoming traffic.
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Going down onto the
Pamir Plateau.
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The town of Sari
Tash and in the distance. the
Pamir Mountains.
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Sari
Tash is on the junction of the road to the Chinese border, 80
kms. to the east.
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Proud grandmother and
grand kids outside our
home stay, Sari
Tash.
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A Dutch couple and their German companion. The Dutch were on an around the world bicycle trip. Not our cup of tea, but I take my hat off to them.
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On the road again the next morning. The plateau is over 3000 meters in elevation. For the most part, the motorcycles ran well at this high altitude.
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Bridge out!
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Simon and Monica, enjoying the moment.
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At the
Tajik border, home to the Marco Polo sheep and the Snow Leopard.
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The border crossing,
Kyzyl-Art Pass, elevation 4282 meters.
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In Tajikistan, looking east from the road towards China, and the border fence.
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There was some pavement, but usually in poor condition. Traffic was next to nil.
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Spectacular high altitude scenery!
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Bridge washout. There was a long detour, but we decided to be a little adventurous and do a crossing. I almost made it, but got bogged down a meter or so from the shore. Monica made it, as you can see.
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Simon's bike also got stuck, but he was able to bring Monica's lighter vehicle over successfully.
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We had great weather, blue skies and sunny days
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High plains living.
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Kids coming for a visit.
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Found a nice spot to camp for the night by a stream, along the Chinese border. There was frost on the ground
overnight.
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While having some coffee in the morning, three Italian motorcyclists happened by. They had taken the detour around the washed out bridge and had become disoriented with nightfall. They spent a sleepless night trying to keep warm. Hot coffees perked them up.
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Yurts and nomadic herders were occasionally to be seen, but the high plateau is generally not hospitable for any kind of agriculture.
Murgab, and the view over the town during lunch
Murgab, lunch.
Alichur Village where we stayed the night. Met a couple of Swiss hikers who were exploring the nearby peaks.
Alichur and our
accommodation. Afghanistan is directly over the mountain range in the background.
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Breakfast consisted of yogurt, flat bread, pancakes, jam and tea.
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The terrain west of
Alichur is lunar like, framed by snowy peaks.
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Mountain view, near the
Koi-
Tezek Pass (4272 meters), the highest point on the
Pamir Highway.
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On the
Khorog side of the pass, we encountered a higher population density, more agriculture and warmer temperatures in the lower altitude valleys.
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The approach to
Khorog.
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