Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Samarkand is a short trip across the border from Dushambe. There were some issues at the border with Tajik custom officers out for extra money in their pockets, but after suggesting that the issues might have to be dealt with at a higher level (embassy level) and lots of discussion we finally entered Uzbekistan with no less money in our pockets.
The Silk Road "Jewels" of Uzbekistan are the cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva.
Samarkand is most noted for its central position on the Silk Road between China and the West, and for being an Islamic center for scholarly study. In the 14Th century, it became the capital of the empire of Tamerlane, and is the site of his mausoleum. The photo above is of the Registan Ensemble, the ancient center of the city.
The three madrasahs of the Registan are: Ulugh Beg Madrasah (1417–1420), the (1619–1636) and the Tilya-Kori Madrasah (1646–1660). Madrasah is an Arabic term meaning a Muslim clergy academy. The photo is of the Sher-Dor Madrasah.
To the left, the Ulugbek Madrasah, and on the right the Tilya-Kori Madrasah.
The Registan is the centerpiece of the city. With its tilting madrasahs, near overload of majolica, azure mosaics and vast well proportioned spaces, it is one of the most awesome sites in Central Asia.
The entrance portal of the Sher Dor (Lion) Madrasah is decorated with roaring felines that look like tigers, but are meant to be lions, contrary to the Islamic prohibition against the depiction of live animals.
The Ulugh Beg Madrasah courtyard. The rooms consist of student dormitory cells, lecture halls, and at the rear a large mosque. About 100 students lived here.
Many of the Madrasahs` former dormitory rooms are now art and souvenir shops.

Beautiful calligraphy and mosaics.

The highlight of the Tilya-Kori Madrasah is its mosque, intricately decorated with gold to symbolize Samarkand`s wealth at the time it was built.
The mosque`s delicate ceiling, oozing with gold leaf, is flat but its tapered design makes it look domed from the inside.
Samarkand ladies out for a stroll. Very colourful dresses.
Mother and son.
Family outing. As on all our trip, the people were friendly and kind. The only problems we occasionally encountered were with people in uniform, and even that was minimal.
Visiting Uzbek tourists getting their picture taken with a visiting Canadian. We noticed a dramatic increase in the number of tourists here, both local and foreign.
The square in front of the Registan. This construction is relatively new, and tastefully done, with shops around the perimeter.
Modern Samarkand sprawls across acres of Soviet buildings, parks and broad avenues surrounding the gem like islands of old Samarkand.
Photo opportunities are endless.
Symmetry, colour and space.
The Guri Amir Mausoleum, the tomb of Tamerlane (Timur) a fourteenth-century conqueror of Western, South and Central Asia, founder of the Timurid Empire and Timurid dynasty (1370-1405) in Central Asia. He made Samarkand his capital, and for 35 years it was Central Asia`s economic and cultural epicenter.
The fluted azure Dome, Tamerlane`s tomb. The mausoleum is also the final resting place of his two sons and two of his grandsons.
The market, Samarkand. Very modern, clean and by western standards, cheap.
The interior courtyard of our guesthouse, a stone`s throw from the Registan.
Upraised eating area in the courtyard. Very Central Asian!
A hundred dollars in Uzbek currency. The black market exchange rate was 2200 Uzbek to 1 U.S. dollar, so we were usually carrying a stack of money on us.
Getting ready to leave.
All packed and going to Bukhara, a short days drive to the west. The Registan Ensemble is in the background. Of the original five of us who started out in May from Tokyo, only us three were together in Samarkand, but Cain and Casey were there in spirit.

Pamir Highway, Along the Afghan Border'

Khorog is a pretty mountain valley town of 28000 inhabitants set amongst dry vertical peaks, divided by the gushing Gunt River. At an altitude of 2100 meters, it offered a pleasant change in temperature from the Pamir Plateau'
The majority of the people belong to the Ismali Sect of Islam, led by the Aga Khan, who has funneled a lot of development money into the region. Khorog, with three campuses of the University of Central Asia in its eastern suburbs, has one of the brightest and best educated populations in Central Asia.
At left, Dr. Ali Muhammed Rajput, a Pakistani scholar, who selflessly funded the Pamir Lodge where we stayed the night. He divides his time between London and Khorog. The monies from the Lodge go to support the workers and the local Ismali prayer and meeting hall.
A few kilometers downstream, the Gunt River merges with the Pyanj River, marking the border with Afghanistan. The photo at left was taken on the grounds of the Khorog Serena Inn, the best hotel in town. Afghanistan is on the other side of the river.
We met up again with the three Italian riders that we had encountered earlier on, and traveled the day with them. In the photo, Paulo wearing his "spare helmet", and Maria on the back.
Afghan border post, Pyanj River.
The southern route to Dushambe, paralleling the border, passes through pretty Tajik villages and magnificent scenery.
The road conditions were varied, mixed pavement and corrugated gravel. However, when compared to the tracks along the cliffs on the Afghan side, they were heaven!
Lunch stop at a little roadside cafe with a backdrop of waterfalls. Boris, one of the Italian motorcyclists enjoying lunch.
Lunch, the typical kebob, salad and bread fare.
Cleaning the dishes
Soft drink sales lady. The stream kept the pop cold.
Mud brick border post, Afghan side.
Twisty road.
The track on the Afghan side, with a mule train. At times they went right up the cliff sides and it was difficult to see where they led to.
A close up of the pack train. The dress was totally different from the Tajik side.
The town of Kalaikhum, where we stayed the night.
Looking back up the valley the next day.
Creek crossing over a bridge of loose steel plates.
Midday rest stop in the cool shade of a tree.
Approaching Dushambe, a meal break.
A fellow customer.
Ibid.
Curious boy on a mule loaded with firewood.
In Dushambe at the Adventurer's Inn, where we stayed. A Indian-Pakistani couple on a break from their jobs in Dubai.
Four of the five of us who started in Tokyo met up in Dushambe. Cain having to meet his wife Yvonne in Moscow, was anxious to be off, with the limited time he had to get there. Great trip Cain, thanks for the memories!
Government building, central Dushambe. We arrived late at night, and pulled into a driveway near here to get our bearings. We were immediately swarmed by a half dozen panicky policemen, who seemed to come out of nowhere, trying to get us to move on. It turned out that the gate we were in front of was that the President's Residence!
With its tree lined streets, cool backdrop of mountains, and neoclassical buildings, Dushambe is perhaps Central Asia's best looking capital. The photo is of Rudaki Avenue, downtown.
Street scene outside the Adventurer's Inn, leaving for Uzbekistan and Samarkand.
At the exit of the infamous Anzob Tunnel, five kms. long and still a work in progress. It was dimly lit, no ventilation and lots of water seepage. A few years back, a vehicle broke down in the tunnel and several people suffocated due to the buildup of fumes. Notice the exhaust pouring out of the opening.
Gassing up in Tajikistan before making for the Uzbek border. We heard there was some problem with fuel availability in Uzbekistan. Tomorrow, Samarkand.