Khorog is a pretty mountain valley town of 28000 inhabitants set amongst dry vertical peaks, divided by the gushing Gunt River. At an altitude of 2100 meters, it offered a pleasant change in temperature from the Pamir Plateau'
The majority of the people belong to the Ismali Sect of Islam, led by the Aga Khan, who has funneled a lot of development money into the region. Khorog, with three campuses of the University of Central Asia in its eastern suburbs, has one of the brightest and best educated populations in Central Asia.
At left, Dr. Ali Muhammed Rajput, a Pakistani scholar, who selflessly funded the Pamir Lodge where we stayed the night. He divides his time between London and Khorog. The monies from the Lodge go to support the workers and the local Ismali prayer and meeting hall.
A few kilometers downstream, the Gunt River merges with the Pyanj River, marking the border with Afghanistan. The photo at left was taken on the grounds of the Khorog Serena Inn, the best hotel in town. Afghanistan is on the other side of the river.
We met up again with the three Italian riders that we had encountered earlier on, and traveled the day with them. In the photo, Paulo wearing his "spare helmet", and Maria on the back.
Afghan border post, Pyanj River.
The southern route to Dushambe, paralleling the border, passes through pretty Tajik villages and magnificent scenery.
The road conditions were varied, mixed pavement and corrugated gravel. However, when compared to the tracks along the cliffs on the Afghan side, they were heaven!
Lunch stop at a little roadside cafe with a backdrop of waterfalls. Boris, one of the Italian motorcyclists enjoying lunch.
Lunch, the typical kebob, salad and bread fare.
Cleaning the dishes
Soft drink sales lady. The stream kept the pop cold.
Mud brick border post, Afghan side.
Twisty road.
The track on the Afghan side, with a mule train. At times they went right up the cliff sides and it was difficult to see where they led to.
A close up of the pack train. The dress was totally different from the Tajik side.
The town of Kalaikhum, where we stayed the night.
Looking back up the valley the next day.
Creek crossing over a bridge of loose steel plates.
Midday rest stop in the cool shade of a tree.
Approaching Dushambe, a meal break.
A fellow customer.
Ibid.
Curious boy on a mule loaded with firewood.
In Dushambe at the Adventurer's Inn, where we stayed. A Indian-Pakistani couple on a break from their jobs in Dubai.
Four of the five of us who started in Tokyo met up in Dushambe. Cain having to meet his wife Yvonne in Moscow, was anxious to be off, with the limited time he had to get there. Great trip Cain, thanks for the memories!
Government building, central Dushambe. We arrived late at night, and pulled into a driveway near here to get our bearings. We were immediately swarmed by a half dozen panicky policemen, who seemed to come out of nowhere, trying to get us to move on. It turned out that the gate we were in front of was that the President's Residence!
With its tree lined streets, cool backdrop of mountains, and neoclassical buildings, Dushambe is perhaps Central Asia's best looking capital. The photo is of Rudaki Avenue, downtown.
Street scene outside the Adventurer's Inn, leaving for Uzbekistan and Samarkand.
At the exit of the infamous Anzob Tunnel, five kms. long and still a work in progress. It was dimly lit, no ventilation and lots of water seepage. A few years back, a vehicle broke down in the tunnel and several people suffocated due to the buildup of fumes. Notice the exhaust pouring out of the opening.
Gassing up in Tajikistan before making for the Uzbek border. We heard there was some problem with fuel availability in Uzbekistan. Tomorrow, Samarkand.
Khorog is a pretty mountain valley town of 28000 inhabitants set amongst dry vertical peaks, divided by the gushing Gunt River. At an altitude of 2100 meters, it offered a pleasant change in temperature from the Pamir Plateau'
The majority of the people belong to the Ismali Sect of Islam, led by the Aga Khan, who has funneled a lot of development money into the region. Khorog, with three campuses of the University of Central Asia in its eastern suburbs, has one of the brightest and best educated populations in Central Asia.
At left, Dr. Ali Muhammed Rajput, a Pakistani scholar, who selflessly funded the Pamir Lodge where we stayed the night. He divides his time between London and Khorog. The monies from the Lodge go to support the workers and the local Ismali prayer and meeting hall.
A few kilometers downstream, the Gunt River merges with the Pyanj River, marking the border with Afghanistan. The photo at left was taken on the grounds of the Khorog Serena Inn, the best hotel in town. Afghanistan is on the other side of the river.
We met up again with the three Italian riders that we had encountered earlier on, and traveled the day with them. In the photo, Paulo wearing his "spare helmet", and Maria on the back.
Afghan border post, Pyanj River.
The southern route to Dushambe, paralleling the border, passes through pretty Tajik villages and magnificent scenery.
The road conditions were varied, mixed pavement and corrugated gravel. However, when compared to the tracks along the cliffs on the Afghan side, they were heaven!
Lunch stop at a little roadside cafe with a backdrop of waterfalls. Boris, one of the Italian motorcyclists enjoying lunch.
Lunch, the typical kebob, salad and bread fare.
Cleaning the dishes
Soft drink sales lady. The stream kept the pop cold.
Mud brick border post, Afghan side.
Twisty road.
The track on the Afghan side, with a mule train. At times they went right up the cliff sides and it was difficult to see where they led to.
A close up of the pack train. The dress was totally different from the Tajik side.
The town of Kalaikhum, where we stayed the night.
Looking back up the valley the next day.
Creek crossing over a bridge of loose steel plates.
Midday rest stop in the cool shade of a tree.
Approaching Dushambe, a meal break.
A fellow customer.
Ibid.
Curious boy on a mule loaded with firewood.
In Dushambe at the Adventurer's Inn, where we stayed. A Indian-Pakistani couple on a break from their jobs in Dubai.
Four of the five of us who started in Tokyo met up in Dushambe. Cain having to meet his wife Yvonne in Moscow, was anxious to be off, with the limited time he had to get there. Great trip Cain, thanks for the memories!
Government building, central Dushambe. We arrived late at night, and pulled into a driveway near here to get our bearings. We were immediately swarmed by a half dozen panicky policemen, who seemed to come out of nowhere, trying to get us to move on. It turned out that the gate we were in front of was that the President's Residence!
With its tree lined streets, cool backdrop of mountains, and neoclassical buildings, Dushambe is perhaps Central Asia's best looking capital. The photo is of Rudaki Avenue, downtown.
Street scene outside the Adventurer's Inn, leaving for Uzbekistan and Samarkand.
At the exit of the infamous Anzob Tunnel, five kms. long and still a work in progress. It was dimly lit, no ventilation and lots of water seepage. A few years back, a vehicle broke down in the tunnel and several people suffocated due to the buildup of fumes. Notice the exhaust pouring out of the opening.
Gassing up in Tajikistan before making for the Uzbek border. We heard there was some problem with fuel availability in Uzbekistan. Tomorrow, Samarkand.
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