The Pamir Highway, Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan.

The ancient silk road city of Osh is Kyrgyzstan's second largest, and the administrative center of the Kirghiz portion of the Fergana Valley. In the months prior to our arrival there were violent clashes between the Kirghiz and Uzbek communities and scores of buildings were burned to the ground.
After a short drive from Jalalabad to Osh, we took a brief look around and left for the Pamir highway. There was lots of cleanup going on, with rubble piles at the sides of the roads. The place still felt tense.
The Pamir Highway (M41) was built by Soviet military engineers between 1931 and 1934 to facilitate troops, transport and provisions to this very remote part of the Soviet empire. It runs about 1450 kms. from Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Dushambe, the capital of Tajikistan. The route is composed of some of the most remote and untouched areas of the world.
The above photo is of a better portion of the road, climbing out of Osh.
The road turned to one of well maintained gravel. It is becoming, in the Kyrgyz portion, the major artery for trade between Central Asia and Kashgar in far western China.
Switchbacks up to the Taldyk Pass (3615 meters). There were many Chinese trucks, and a Chinese construction crew upgrading the road.
One of the Chinese workers spoke some Russian. Simon, having a chat.
Giving way to oncoming traffic.
Going down onto the Pamir Plateau.
The town of Sari Tash and in the distance. the Pamir Mountains.
Sari Tash is on the junction of the road to the Chinese border, 80 kms. to the east.
Proud grandmother and grand kids outside our home stay, Sari Tash.
A Dutch couple and their German companion. The Dutch were on an around the world bicycle trip. Not our cup of tea, but I take my hat off to them.
On the road again the next morning. The plateau is over 3000 meters in elevation. For the most part, the motorcycles ran well at this high altitude.
Bridge out!
Simon and Monica, enjoying the moment.
At the Tajik border, home to the Marco Polo sheep and the Snow Leopard.
The border crossing, Kyzyl-Art Pass, elevation 4282 meters.
In Tajikistan, looking east from the road towards China, and the border fence.
There was some pavement, but usually in poor condition. Traffic was next to nil.
Spectacular high altitude scenery!
Bridge washout. There was a long detour, but we decided to be a little adventurous and do a crossing. I almost made it, but got bogged down a meter or so from the shore. Monica made it, as you can see.
Simon's bike also got stuck, but he was able to bring Monica's lighter vehicle over successfully.
We had great weather, blue skies and sunny days
High plains living.
Kids coming for a visit.
Found a nice spot to camp for the night by a stream, along the Chinese border. There was frost on the ground overnight.
While having some coffee in the morning, three Italian motorcyclists happened by. They had taken the detour around the washed out bridge and had become disoriented with nightfall. They spent a sleepless night trying to keep warm. Hot coffees perked them up.
Yurts and nomadic herders were occasionally to be seen, but the high plateau is generally not hospitable for any kind of agriculture.
Murgab, and the view over the town during lunch
Murgab, lunch.
Alichur Village where we stayed the night. Met a couple of Swiss hikers who were exploring the nearby peaks.
Alichur and our accommodation. Afghanistan is directly over the mountain range in the background.
Breakfast consisted of yogurt, flat bread, pancakes, jam and tea.
The terrain west of Alichur is lunar like, framed by snowy peaks.
Mountain view, near the Koi-Tezek Pass (4272 meters), the highest point on the Pamir Highway.
On the Khorog side of the pass, we encountered a higher population density, more agriculture and warmer temperatures in the lower altitude valleys.
The approach to Khorog.

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan is a country dominated by massive mountain ranges, glaciers, gorges and ice blue lakes. It is about twice the size of the island of Newfoundland.
The 5.2 million population is made up roughly eighty ethnic groups: the principle ethnicity's being Kirghiz (66%), Uzbek (14%) and Russian (10%).
The photo above is in downtown Bishkek, the nation's capital. It is a congenial city of 900.000 inhabitants, not near as cosmopolitan as Almaty nor near as rich. The cost of living dropped dramatically for us.

We found a great little restaurant whose specialty was rabbit. Simon indulging in the house special!
Caine and Adam awaiting a meal.
Monica and a new young friend. He made a special drink for her, on the house. The people, as has been for most of the trip, were kind and hospitable.
Bishkek fast food hamburger joint and the adverts in Cyrillic.
Getting ready to leave the capital, outside the Sakura Guesthouse. The owner is an expat. Japanese fellow married to a local lady. Excellent place to stay!
Leaving Bishkek for Central Kyrgyzstan's mountainous heart in the Tian Shan (Celestial Mountains in Chinese) Range. The well paved road leads to Lake Issyk-Kol, the second largest alpine lake in the world.
Rest stop on the way up.
Tasty corn on the cob. shishkabob, bread and salad.
We turned off the main paved highway for a 50 km. ride over a dirt road to Lake Song-Kol.
Up over the Kalmak-Ashuu Pass and into the lake basin.
Lake Song-Kol at 3016 meters is one of the loveliest spots in Central Kyrgyzstan. All around it are lush pastures favoured by nomadic herders, who spend the summer here with their animals.
Visitors are welcome, and it's a sublime place to camp for a couple of days.
Monica and a new friend.
Kids and their donkey. The older people spoke a little Russian, the young not so much.
Packing up.
The boy just sat in the saddle and watched.

Yurts at the side of the lake on the way out. Simon drove over to check on directions. They had been indulging in that popular Russian cultural import, drinking vodka, and were drunk as skunks.
The view onwards from the top of Moldo Ashuu Pass at an altitude of 3200 meters.
Quite a spectacular ride, with 33 switchbacks to be navigated! The photo is from the top of the pass looking out at the route down before us.
Stopped for a break in the next valley. Monica and Frank pictured.
In the village of Jangy Talap looking for gasoline. There were no gas stations in the town, but we were able to buy some from one of the locals.
We next inquired about a restaurant and were promptly invited into a home to join a christening party celebrating the arrival of a new baby.
Over another pass, people at the side of the road.
Bridge over the Narin River, east of the town of Kazarman. The countryside was more arid in this area.
Simon and Monica enjoying supper at our guesthouse in Kazarman.
On the road to Jalalabad the next morning. Still no pavement, but spectacular country!
The final big up, before the Fergana Valley.
Monica near the top staying to the right. No guardrails here! Parts of the road had been gouged away by rain water run off. The route was so degraded in sections that we seriously questioned whether we were really on the right road.
Simon at the top, 3100 meters, on the Kazarman-Jalalabad highway.
More of the road. There was next to no traffic.
Approaching the Fergana Valley.
The Fergana Valley, the breadbasket of Central Asia. Rich farmland, lots of sunflowers, and of course, warmer.
This part of Kyrgyzstan is less Russified then the north. The people in the south are more observant of Muslim doctrine than their cousins in other parts of the country. Still the face coverings such as the one in the photo were not the rule.
Family leaving the market, Jalalabad.
Pretty traditional dresses.
A man offering a traditional greeting with his right hand held over his heart. What a nice gesture! Many times people would do this when we passed them at the side of the road on the highway.
Kirghiz man wearing a traditional felt hat.
Market scene, Jalalabad. It was melon season and they were delicious!
Nuts and dried fruit.
Russian style dental work.
Herbs and spices.
Chewing tobacco salesman. I tried some, and it was potent stuff!
Lady in a tea shop.
Foxy lady in a tea shop.
The owner of our home stay. She of course was fluent in Russian, the working language.
Monica at rest in their room after a long ride.
Lenin is still an important figure in the "Stans", as in Russia. Statues are common.
A month before we arrived in Kyrgyzstan there were ethnic riots in the Jalalabad-Osh area of the south. Many buildings were burned out. The conflict was between the Uzbeks and the Kirghiz. They were of a economic nature, pitting the majority Kirghiz against the minority Uzbeks and their businesses. It had settled down by the time we arrived and they were cleaning up. Curfew had just been lifted the day we arrived.
Pictured above is a hotel burned out during the troubles.
Cool biker dude, Joseph, grandson of the guesthouse owner.
We next left for the nearby city of Osh, and the Pamir Highway.